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Best Habitats for Turtles vs. Tortoises
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Turtles and tortoises get confused for one another all of the time. They both have hard shells that they can retreat into for protection and they are both so cute! Although these pets have a ton in common, there are an equal amount of differences between them. The differences between turtles vs. tortoises are big enough that they need different habitats and different care to live their best and most happy life.
Turtles vs. Tortoises
The majority of the differences between turtles vs. tortoises involve the way their bodies are built and designed. The major differences between the two include:
- Time in the Water - Most turtles are built for the water other than a few that prefer land. Tortoises can't swim, which makes them very different.
- Shell Shape - Most turtles have shells that are designed to do well in the water. They are often flatter, wider and built for swimming. Tortoises have rounder, larger shells.
- Size - Pet tortoises are mostly bigger than turtles. While there are definitely turtles that are bigger than most tortoises, you wouldn’t have a sea turtle as a pet.
- Legs/Feet - Turtles have flat, webbed feet that help them move through the water - other than box turtles who spend the most time on land and have longer claws instead. Tortoise feet are designed to support their heavier weight. Their feet are wider and sometimes look similar to elephant feet.
- Diets - Tortoises do not eat meat of any kind and depend on tortoise food, fruits and vegetables (the exception being the red-footed tortoise, whose diet includes meat) to stay full and happy. On the other hand, Turtles eat insects and other meaty foods along with vegetables and turtle food.
- Habitats - When it comes to turtles vs. tortoises, their habitat needs couldn’t be more different!
Turtle Habitats
There are a couple of different types of turtles that make good pets, and their homes are a little different for that reason.
Aquatic Turtle Habitats
Aquatic turtle habitats have some obvious differences from their box turtle cousins. First being, they need an aquatic environment, not a land-based one. Their environment should include turtle supplies like:
- Tank Size - The tank size for your aquatic turtle should be 10 gallons (40 liters) for every one inch of their shell. So if you have a turtle that is 5 inches long, they should have a 50-gallon (190 liters) tank. Increase the size of their aquarium/terrarium as they grow.
- Water - Turtles need specific water quality to stay happy and healthy. Use an aquarium water conditioner to create the perfect aquatic environment for them. The majority of their tank should be water while still leaving space toward the top that is above water for basking. Pet parents should change 50% of the water once a week and completely replace it once a month or more. Use a canister filter to help keep the water clean.
- Heating - Use anaquarium heater to keep the water warm and a basking light for their above-water light source.
- Lighting - Turtles need their light source to mimic a 12 hour day and night cycle. Use a UVB bulb and basking bulb near the turtle’s dry area.
- Temperature - Their daytime dry temperature should be 75-85°F (24-29°C) on the cool side and 90-95°F (32-35°C) on their basking spot. Their nighttime temperature should stay between 65-75°F (18-24°C) and their water should always be around 72-77°F (22-25°C). Use two thermometers to measure the temperature on either side.
- Humidity - Humidity is not a concern in aquatic turtle habitats.
- Food - Aquatic turtles eat a balanced diet of turtle pellet food, vegetables, insects and turtle food fish. Their food can be put directly into the water. Remove whatever they do not eat before it breaks down too much and makes their water dirty.
Tortoise Habitats
Tortoises need a lot of room in their habitat. Greek, Russian and Hermann’s tortoises grow up to 10,” and Red-Footed tortoises can grow up to 14”. They all require a lot of horizontal space.
- Tank Size - a single juvenile tortoise needs at least a 50-gallon (190 liters) terrarium with a screened lid. Their tank should grow as they do.
- Substrate - 2-3” of a reptile-safe substrate. Clean droppings regularly and change bedding monthly using reptile waste removal and sanitize the habitat using reptile-safe habitat sanitizers and deodorizers.
- Water - Shallow water dish wide enough for them to soak in.
- Heating - Create a heat gradient in their habitat using heat lamps, one side remaining cooler and one for basking in the warmth.
- Lighting - Use a UVA/UVB aquarium lightbulbwith a timer to mimic a 12 hour day and night cycle.
- Temperature - For Greek, Russian and Hermann’s tortoises, their daytime temperature on the cool side of their habitat should be between 72-80°F (22-27°C) and 90-95°F (32-35°C) on the warm side. At night, it should be 70-80°F (21-27°C). For a red-footed tortoise, the daytime temperature on the cool side of their tortoise terrarium should be somewhere between 70-85°F (21-29°C) and their basking spot should be anywhere from 90-95°F (32-35°C). Their nighttime temperature should be 70-80°F (21-27°C). Use two thermometers, one on the cool side, the other on the warm side, to track the temperature.
- Humidity - A red-footed tortoise’s habitat should be kept at 50-80% humidity. A Greek and Hermann’s tortoise humidity should measure between 40-60%. A Russian tortoise’s habitat humidity should measure between 30-50%. Use a hygrometer to keep track. Use their water dish and a mister to increase the humidity if needed.
- Food Dish - Make sure to include a tortoise food dish, so they do not accidentally eat their substrate.
- Food - Greek, Russian and Hermann’s tortoises rely on a balanced diet of power greens (kale, collard greens, dandelion greens, romaine, etc), tortoise food pellets, and fruits. Red-Footed tortoises should also have some insects in their diet.
Now that you have learned all of the differences between the habitats of turtles vs. tortoises, you can create the best home for your pet. Consider a pet reptile starter kit to get all the essentials.
Information in this article is not intended to diagnose, treat or cure your pet and is not a substitute for veterinary care provided by a licensed veterinarian. For any medical or health-related advice concerning the care and treatment of your pet, contact your veterinarian.
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